Friends in Chch okay

Rick did an update tonight for family, and we thought getting it to the wider community who have been contacting us would be helpful. For us, everything is fine. Dunedin was not harmed in any way.

But the earthquake was much worse than we initially thought. We have cancelled our plan to go to Christchurch -- we were going next week to visit friends and spend a few days in the city revisiting old haunts, most of which are now in rubble. It's not just a bad time to visit, but not a good idea to be in the area right now. It is still geologically unsafe, and we have even felt a couple of their aftershocks here.

We just heard from our friends Ian and Kate Hall, and thank God they are unharmed. Haven't heard from others yet, but we have our feelers out. The devastation is amazing, but it reminds us to pay a different kind of attention when we hear reports of serious disasters in Peru or India. It's so easy to think of those as remote places and people, but we're reminded that we are all connected.

The generosity of the Kiwi people and the response from around the world has been impressive. I'm guessing that your news outlets will be reporting on the gruesome events and statistics -- death tolls and the like. I think we're mostly feeling blessed to have missed being in the middle of the disaster, and grateful for the opportunity to watch a strong, resilient nation dig itself out of this awful experience.

This has been an extraordinary experience. Not one I recommend.

Earthquake in Christchurch

You may have heard that Christchurch was hit with another earthquake today (over the noon hour). Police have confirmed some fatalities. Lots of damage, including to the iconic cathedral in Chch square. We don't know too many details yet other than what's on the news. We're contacting Ian and Kate Hall there. In the meantime, we just didn't want you to worry if you saw reports. We're fine--no problems down here. There was a small tremour in Dunedin. Jim and Karin were at a store in housewares when the dishes did a little rattling, but they were the only ones who seemed to notice anything.

UPDATE 7:20 p.m.: Jim and Karin were back home about 3 p.m., watching the news coverage and got a little shake in our house, enough to make the curtains sway. Nylla and Jim went out tonight to dance class, and we watched some of the coverage before they left. She is heading up to Chch tomorrow. She's from there and hasn't heard from her family. Just heard there are 65 fatalities and more expected. Still nothing from the Halls. Posted are some photos from news coverage.

Larnach Castle

Up and just off Highcliff Road on the Otago Peninsula spine is Larnach Castle. We visited years ago when the family was doing a lot of restoration. It's quite fascinating, and nothing is roped off like it is in most museums or, say, the Hearst Castle in California. Photography is not allowed inside, but here's one of Rick and Jim in the cafe after lunch. This used to be the stables. When we arrived, it was clear but as a storm moved in, the clouds were blowing right through the grounds. Rick said being up on the turret was Hamlet Act 1, Scene 1. He expected to see Hamlet's father walk out of the mist. Spooky!

Sandymount Track

If you want a little exhileration in your afternoon hike, try the Sandymount Track on the Otago Peninsula. We weren't sure if we'd do the tramp; the wind was so strong and gusty, Rick had a hard time standing against it. Breathtaking scenery and fantastic steep cliffs to the sea below. We are reminded that New Zealanders are much like Italians when it comes to public safety and whose problem it is. I think it falls under the category of "You fell off the unmarked, unfenced cliff? Well, you're a bit thick then, aren't you?" The challenge of this tramp was definitely Jim's complete trust in us, his guides. The tramp was more difficult than we figured, but it was well worth it, and we made it back in a couple of hours. Jim was an absolute gamer the entire time. He was knackered by the end, but still willing to go for another walk around Larnach Castle. We're hoping for a fine day this week so we can do the Sandfly Beach track.

Loving the pipes

One of the best parts of travel, and certainly southern New Zealand, happened today. It was a relatively dreary morning, after a week or two of really nice weather, so we were feeling a little glum but decided to make our way downtown to the Saturday morning Farmer's Market. Always good for a pick-me-up.

We couldn't have imagined what happened next. As we approached the Octagon, the central hub of Dunedin, we heard pipes. Bagpipes to be more exact. Then we noticed the street was blocked off. We shuffled our way through crowds of people as the music swelled. By the time we reached the Octagon, we were in full Scottish glory.

A bagpipe band contest was underway. Good ones. No, great ones! It was a southern New Zealand contest to see who would advance to the national championships. For hours--yes, hours--bands paraded through the town. It was brilliant. Turned out to be one of those amazing things that only happens if you stay in a place long enough, and you're lucky enough, to trip across something wonderfully local. We found an outdoor table on the Octagon at "The Craic" and sipped long blacks and bathed in the cacophonous beauty of pipe bands. Part of Rick's family (mother's side) evidently has some Scottish blood (and Irish and Dutch, imagine that). We don't know how much--that side of the family line is a little more murky than the Schwier side, but it must be there. We could listen to this stuff all day long and still want more. Karin's part is a little more legitimate. Her heritage has some Scot, and Dad Melberg loves the pipes and has regaled us with his recordings when we visit.

Here's a wee sample of what we saw today. Wish you could have been there.

Up and over to Purakaunui

Jim and Karin convinced Rick to break away from the book late on a fine afternoon yesterday so we could take a little tour. We headed up to the Orokonui ecosanctuary high above Port Chalmers, stopping to visit the free range chickens. We had a pricey pot of tea and decided to take the road least traveled on the way back. Spectacular views and a few heart-stopping cliff edges to navigate. We ended up in the little community of Purakaunui with not a person in sight, only some boat sheds and sheer quiet. The village is the end of the road, so we had to turn around and retrace our steps. Rick even pulled over for sheep photos, except where there was no shoulder or steep dropoffs or places we were likely to die.

Nylla and Jim have been getting together twice a week to throw the rugby ball around and do stuff. Here she is entering the house in her unconventional manner. He's going to her Jolt dance class Tuesday night and will get together with her Thursday night while Rick and Karin do a uni-people farewell wine and cheese with Gill and a few others. Nylla said, "Jim, would you rather put on a suit and be polite or come play netball in your gym gear?" We are taking her home.

Aramoana

Gill gave us a great Department of Conservation website so we could chart out a couple of tramps around the area to do before we leave. We took an afternoon drive out to Aramoana, a tiny village way out at the inland tip of the harbour almost directly across from Taiaroa Head. Nylla let us know this little community hasn't always been so peaceful. A boardwalk takes you out through flax groves to the salt marshes. Afterwards, we walked on the beach and though there are warning signs posted, we only saw seal and sea lion tracks and wallow holes. You're supposed to give them a wide berth because if they decide to go after you, they can really run! The road out to Aramoana is a thrill ride in itself, almost one lane for both sides that hugs the coastline with hairpin turns, no shoulders, and a steep drop off on ocean side.